:30:01
You never know
when you might need them.
:30:05
- Who are you?
- Just a fan.
:30:09
l was hoping
l could train with you guys.
:30:12
Very few surfers have the courage
and skill to ride really big waves.
:30:17
And here, in a marketplace in Bali,
on the other side of the world, -
:30:23
- he was about to become
one of them.
:30:26
Some mornings I wake up
and ask myself, -
:30:31
- "Will I die today?"
You never know when you'll go.
:30:36
If something goes wrong,
the jet ski is your only salvation.
:30:41
Jet skis, ropes!
You've got equipment on the brain.
:30:44
ln Hawaii, l'll paddle into those
40-footers with my bare hands.
:30:49
You can't paddle. lt's too big.
:30:52
- lt's just a wave, man.
- lt's too fast.
:30:56
- You can't paddle 35 mph.
- Horse shit! lt's just a wave, man.
:31:02
You've got to be in the right place
at the right time.
:31:07
- Dream on.
- Are you towing me in?
:31:10
You, no problem.
As for him ... no way.
:31:15
- And just why the hell not?
- Because you're crazy.
:31:20
Thank you, Keoni.
l love you, too.
:31:23
But l will tell you one thing.
For us, the partying's over.
:31:27
Starting tomorrow, we train.
All day, every day. That's reality.