Orange County
Önceki.
göster.
yer.
sonraki.

:01:00
and spending my nights
around a bonfire partying.

:01:05
School was always a walk for me.
:01:08
I did pretty well
without trying too hard.

:01:10
There’s a tropical storm off Laguna.
:01:12
Let’s go, dude.
Surf’s up.

:01:14
I was easily distracted.
:01:15
- What about next period?
- Twenty-footers. Screw your period.

:01:19
Twenty-footers?
:01:21
Then last April, me and my crew
drove out to Emerald Cove...

:01:27
to catch some major tsunami waves.
:01:40
I don’t know, you guys.
:01:42
Dude, face the fear.
:01:47
This is intense!
:02:06
Righteous.
:02:15
Lonny always said he wanted to die
eating foam in a massive wipeout...

:02:20
but I bet he’s up in heaven
right now.

:02:22
After Lonny drowned,
I did some heavy meditating.

:02:25
I thought, maybe there’s more to life
than extreme sports...

:02:30
and trying to get laid.
:02:32
Maybe there’s
a bigger purpose for me...

:02:34
and I’ve just been too high
to figure it out.

:02:37
I was sitting on the beach,
totally cogitating.

:02:41
I looked down, and there, in the sand,
was a copy of your book.

:02:48
It was like a sign, like your book
was calling out to me.

:02:51
Read me.
:02:54
For the next few days,
I read it from cover to cover.

:02:58
Your book totally captured
what it’s like to be a teenager--


Önceki.
sonraki.