:10:03
You knew every one.
They were there every time.
:10:06
To us, that was a crowd at the time.
:10:08
You'd be out there for maybe
about two, three hours...
:10:11
...and you would only catch,
like, five waves.
:10:15
You don't wanna mess up.
You don't have no leash...
:10:18
...and you're way out there. When
you get wiped out, there's nobody.
:10:38
In the early days, we lived
on the beach. We had tents.
:10:41
Then later on, we all got together
and rented a Quonset hut...
:10:44
...for 25 or up to 50 bucks, and
10 guys would be in the Quonset hut.
:10:48
It was cheap. That was an upgrade.
:10:52
It was easygoing.
No problems, no hassles.
:10:56
And we used to leave
our board on the beach there...
:10:59
...go to Waikiki for two days,
come back, it'd be there.
:11:02
Nobody would touch it.
:11:27
The Californians were mentored...
:11:28
... by Makaha's first generation
of big-wave riders.
:11:31
Surfers like Woody Brown,
along with Wally Froiseth...
:11:35
... George Downing and Buzzy Trent,
had spent much...
:11:38
... of the previous decade
challenging Makaha's giant surf.
:11:41
They were the astronauts
of their era.
:11:45
They were conquering waves
no one had.
:11:47
To me, those guys
were bigger than life.
:11:51
That trio of guys were
the first really hardcore...
:11:56
...big-wave riders that set
the blueprint for the next generation.