:14:10
We were spending eight,
10 hours a day in the water...
:14:13
...doing nothing
but surfing our guts out.
:14:15
There wasn't any home life.
:14:17
We spent our days on the beach.
That's what we did.
:14:20
We surfed all day, every day,
no matter what.
:14:24
In those days, we never saw girls.
:14:28
If you brought a date and sat her
in the car while you surfed...
:14:31
...you never had that date again.
:14:36
These guys came to surf.
:14:39
And it was kind of unheard of.
You don't have a job...
:14:42
...you're gonna spend
a couple of months here to surf.
:14:44
No watch, no money,
no car, no nothing.
:14:48
Just shorts and a T-shirt.
:14:51
There were no hotels.
There was a place in Hale'iwa...
:14:54
...that was a set of cubicles...
:14:56
You'd have guys sharing
the place and getting mattresses...
:14:59
...from the Salvation Army
and throwing them on the floor.
:15:02
And, I mean, it was a scene
to try to make ends meet.
:15:06
There wasn't a lot of money,
so if we wanted to eat...
:15:09
...we had to go diving.
- We'd dive every day...
:15:12
...and get fish and lobster,
and turtle in those days.
:15:16
They would pick coconuts
and papayas, and go fishing.
:15:18
In those days,
you could live off the land.
:15:21
Guys would come
from the mainland...
:15:23
...they'd patch our surfboards
for a peanut-butter sandwich.
:15:27
Pat Curren and I, we'd get in trouble.
We'd steal chickens or something.
:15:41
I mean, the whole thing
was waiting for waves.
:15:44
We would do anything
to amuse ourselves and each other...
:15:47
...so somewhere I had learned about
how to put lighter fluid in your mouth...
:15:52
...and torch it off. Actually, I did
set the side of that house on fire.
:15:59
They're just spending their days
living in the sun...