:27:02
...where the surf would get perfect...
:27:04
...and you'd go out
and catch a wave:
:27:07
You just make this thing
and just have your adrenaline...
:27:11
...dripping out of your ears.
Paddle back out, do it again.
:27:14
You get too cocky,
you get your ass slapped a bit...
:27:17
...she'd let you know it.
But for the most part...
:27:20
...there was just this full-on love affair
that took place for 25 years.
:27:43
Nicknamed "The Bull"
for his charging style...
:27:46
... and clothing himself in a pair
of loud jailhouse-striped trunks...
:27:49
... Noll emerged as surfing's
first big-wave celebrity.
:27:53
He looked like a big-wave rider
with that big, thick neck...
:27:58
...and he had the black-and-white
striped trunks, which was genius.
:28:06
Surfing needed Greg Noll.
When you look at those surfers...
:28:09
...they were a stoic bunch. Greg Noll
introduced flamboyance...
:28:13
...he introduced showmanship.
He introduced that colorful aspect...
:28:17
...that most people associated
with hot-doggy Malibu.
:28:20
Not just the way he surfed,
but just the spirit of it.
:28:23
He introduced that
into big-wave riding.
:28:30
He wanted to ride the biggest wave.
:28:33
Greg made his reputation on taking off
on the biggest, heaviest wave.
:28:37
He stuffed himself into positions
no one else would want.
:28:40
He'd sit over deeper, take off later.
He'd spin around at the last minute.
:28:45
I mean, he was surfing's,
like, first hell-man.
:28:52
He just liked confrontation.
:28:54
He sought it out, in human terms
and in big-wave terms.
:28:59
I was really a young, skinny kid...