Riding Giants
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:32:06
Suddenly surfing was perceived
as hip. People assumed surfers...

:32:11
...were in the know. Look at
the life they were leading.

:32:14
The sun, the bikinis, that sort of aura
of sex, beach blankets and fires...

:32:19
...and then all that
golden flesh in the sun.

:32:25
Hollywood followed Gidget with
a medley of surf exploitation films.

:32:29
Then, in 1964, the Hollywood film
Ride the Wild Surf turned its lens...

:32:35
... on Hawaii's big-wave surfers
challenging Waimea Bay.

:32:39
Man, I've been hot to surf Waimea
since I was 13.

:32:42
But the question is, can we do it
without winding up in traction?

:32:51
The theme is all the same.
:32:52
Chicks in bikinis wringing
their hands that their boyfriends...

:32:56
...are gonna go out and risk his life
for some big wave. It just...

:33:00
Man, it just makes me puke.
:33:03
- Man, is he getting creamed.
- He's taking gas.

:33:06
They show the film.
:33:08
A guy's sitting in a fish pond
without a ripple.

:33:10
A big flat-out is coming!
:33:12
Then they cut to, you know,
a 25-foot wave.

:33:15
Guys are all pouring down
the face of the wave.

:33:21
Goddamn, man.
Who can believe that shit, you know.

:33:27
Hollywood's always had
a misconstrued view of surfing.

:33:31
So it was more or less offensive
to the surfing community.

:33:34
All these ancillary artistic
pursuits that surrounded surfing...

:33:38
...all came together in a rush.
:33:40
All of it happening
from 1960 to 1965.


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