:41:00
You could see this place exploding
from out behind the building...
:41:04
...where we'd all congregate.
:41:05
I was with my childhood friend,
and I'd go:
:41:08
"Brian, we've gotta go
check that out."
:41:14
We'd sit up on a cliff and watch
this place go, and one day it was like:
:41:18
"Brian, today's the day."
:41:21
I go, "Bring your board."
He's like:
:41:23
"There's no way I'm paddling
a half a mile offshore...
:41:26
...to a place I've never been."
:41:28
And so he sat here at the end
of the cliff and said:
:41:31
"I'll call the Coast Guard,
tell them where I last saw you."
:41:37
The year was 1975, and the wave
Clark intended to ride...
:41:41
... broke a half a mile offshore into
a veritable graveyard of jagged rocks.
:41:48
The wave was considered more a
navigational hazard than a surf spot.
:41:54
I just remember a wave jacking up,
I'm in the vein, and total commitment.
:42:01
If I eat it, I eat it. But I'm going.
:42:04
And I hit my feet...
:42:06
...and I've never felt water pass across
the bottom of a surfboard so fast.
:42:12
The fastest I've ever gone,
and I made it.
:42:16
And I just thought,
"Man, I want another one of those."
:42:41
Jeff went out there for the first time
and rode it by himself...
:42:44
...and couldn't get anyone
to go back out with him.
:42:50
There just weren't
any takers around here.
:42:52
People just didn't believe me.
:42:54
They just thought,
"He's out of his mind.
:42:56
He doesn't know
what he's talking about."
:42:59
I said, "It's the best big wave
you'll ever surf."