Riding Giants
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:57:02
...from all the mags were there,
and it was just crazy.

:57:05
We knew it was the day.
:57:06
This was one of the best days
of surfing I've ever had out there.

:57:20
Then at approximately 11:20 a.m.,
during a beautiful medium-sized set...

:57:24
... Mark Foo paddled,
hopped to his feet...

:57:27
... and dropped into his second wave
of the day.

:57:52
I went to lunch.
I came back out to the point.

:57:54
I saw Brock in the parking lot,
and there was this guy, Greg, eerily:

:57:59
"Have you seen Mark Foo?"
:58:01
And that was just...
:58:08
We were headed back in the boat
toward the harbor, and I saw some...

:58:13
It kind of looked just like
a big clump of something...

:58:16
...as we were, you know,
passing it.

:58:18
And I pointed it out and said:
:58:20
"Hey, that looks like a body,"
you know.

:58:24
And, you know, sure enough,
we stopped the boat...

:58:28
...and just realized that it was,
you know, Mark Foo.

:58:38
I dove off and grabbed him
and just rushed to the harbor.

:58:44
It was a...
:58:46
It was a really eerie, eerie,
you know, experience...

:58:50
...and just so chilling.
:58:57
It went from the most pleasant,
beautiful, plate-glass sunshiny day...


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