1:19:03
Challenging waves in the 50-
and 60-foot range...
1:19:06
... obliterated the concept of surfing
as a solitary pursuit...
1:19:09
... and rewired the rules
of engagement.
1:19:12
You gotta have eyes
in the back of your head.
1:19:14
I got eyes, Dave and Darrick.
They see what I need to see.
1:19:17
I'll just kind of balance
right on the crest of the shoulder...
1:19:20
...so I can see what Laird's doing
and what's behind us.
1:19:25
It's a three-man operation.
1:19:27
Laird and Kalama will be paired up.
1:19:30
I'll be in the channel
for safety.
1:19:33
Performing as a team is the key
to survival in 50-foot-plus waves...
1:19:37
... where every wipeout
becomes life-threatening.
1:19:44
When things go wrong,
they go wrong real quick.
1:19:49
You're getting brutalized so severely,
you don't know when it's gonna end.
1:19:53
You're an insignificant little rag doll...
1:19:57
...trying to keep your limbs in
so that nothing gets ripped off.
1:20:01
Anybody who looks at that shit goes:
"How can that guy live through that?"
1:20:13
The greatest threat
is getting trapped...
1:20:16
... in the impact zone
and held underwater...
1:20:18
... as successive 10-story waves
explode overhead.
1:20:23
Out of sheer necessity of survival...
1:20:25
... tow-in surfing introduced
the big-wave rescue...
1:20:28
... with the Ski driver ready and willing
to put himself in harm's way...
1:20:32
... to come to the aid
of his fallen partner.
1:20:37
I'm thinking about the next wave
that's gonna hit him.
1:20:40
And how much time I have
from where I am to get to him...
1:20:43
...get him on the Ski
and get out of there.
1:20:46
Sometimes you're not able
to get him immediately.
1:20:50
He might have to take
two or three on the head.
1:20:58
You've gotta dash in there,
and hopefully the timing is right...