1:24:15
There's something about riding
a 60- to 80-foot-face wave...
1:24:19
...that draws something out of you.
1:24:23
The wave commands so much focus,
so much attention.
1:24:26
It's the only thing that matters for a few
seconds, and it's very purifying...
1:24:30
...because as far as you're concerned,
nothing else exists.
1:24:47
You're not doing this
for your own glory.
1:24:50
You're caught up
in this great act of nature.
1:25:05
Ironically, the biggest challenge...
1:25:07
... facing these professional
big-wave riders is not the wave itself.
1:25:17
You can't just go get it on Sunday
at 12:00...
1:25:20
...like you can most anything else.
1:25:23
When the ocean is not making
the waves available...
1:25:26
...Laird suffers, like a lot
of the other guys do.
1:25:30
Oh, I get so depressed, it's like:
1:25:37
We get frustrated, depressed
and bitchy...
1:25:40
...and grouchy and... You know.
1:25:43
You really don't wanna be
around us like that.
1:25:46
Laird was trying to explain what
it was like when there was no waves.
1:25:50
And he said, you know,
"It would sort of be like...
1:25:53
...if you were a dragon slayer,
and there were no dragons.
1:25:56
Then you wonder, like, who am I
and what am I doing here?"