1:33:17
One of the things I love about
my work as a physician...
1:33:20
...and I work with cancer patients,
people with life-threatening illnesses...
1:33:25
...is to see what often takes place,
which is, literally, transformation.
1:33:31
Where they just begin to, sort of,
eliminate the bullshit...
1:33:35
...and they begin to actually live,
truly live, almost for the first time.
1:33:39
And those kind of
life-changing events...
1:33:43
...can come from illness...
1:33:46
...they can come from revelation...
1:33:48
...they can actually come from,
for me, anyway, big-wave surfing.
1:33:53
That's the thing about it, it's that
ultimate big wave that you ride...
1:33:57
...that you remember
for the rest of your life.
1:34:00
They're engrained in your brain,
just like your child being born.
1:34:11
I haven't missed a swell in 55 years.
1:34:15
I'm still as excited about surfing
as I've ever been.
1:34:18
I literally run to the water with my
board, hooting, laughing and giggling.
1:34:28
Centuries ago, a young Hawaiian
stood up on his surfboard...
1:34:31
... and slid gently across the face
of a breaking wave.
1:34:36
That same wave
has rolled through time...
1:34:39
... crossing many oceans,
bearing the giants of surfing...
1:34:43
... from King Kamehameha
to Duke Kahanamoku...
1:34:46
... from George Downing
to Greg Noll...
1:34:50
... from Jeff Clark to Laird Hamilton...
1:34:53
... sweeping them all toward
that most supreme pleasure...
1:34:56
... driven on so fast and smoothly
by the sea.