Orange County

and spending my nights
around a bonfire partying.

School was always a walk for me.
I did pretty well
without trying too hard.

There’s a tropical storm off Laguna.
Let’s go, dude.
Surf’s up.

I was easily distracted.
- What about next period?
- Twenty-footers. Screw your period.

Then last April, me and my crew
drove out to Emerald Cove...

to catch some major tsunami waves.
I don’t know, you guys.
Dude, face the fear.
This is intense!
Lonny always said he wanted to die
eating foam in a massive wipeout...

but I bet he’s up in heaven
right now.

After Lonny drowned,
I did some heavy meditating.

I thought, maybe there’s more to life
than extreme sports...

and trying to get laid.
Maybe there’s
a bigger purpose for me...

and I’ve just been too high
to figure it out.

I was sitting on the beach,
totally cogitating.

I looked down, and there, in the sand,
was a copy of your book.

It was like a sign, like your book
was calling out to me.

Read me.
For the next few days,
I read it from cover to cover.

Your book totally captured
what it’s like to be a teenager--