1:01:03
A guy more invincible than any of us,
with more experience than any of us.
1:01:08
He's the guy that said,
"To catch the ultimate thrill...
1:01:11
...you gotta be willing
to pay the ultimate price."
1:01:14
Everyone wanted to understand
what killed him. That was important.
1:01:18
Because they were trying
to assess the risk...
1:01:21
...in the face
of their sudden mortality.
1:01:23
As it sunk in,
I didn't think that could happen.
1:01:26
- I didn't think that could happen.
- I thought I was invincible.
1:01:30
You know, I didn't think... I thought
I could huck myself over any ledge...
1:01:34
...and pop back up laughing,
you know.
1:01:36
And I think a lot of big-wave
riders have that belief.
1:01:40
When it comes down to it,
it's up to me whether I live or die.
1:01:44
It's up to me whether
I go on a wave or not.
1:01:48
While an extravagant funeral
was planned for Foo in Hawaii...
1:01:51
... surfers from up and down
the California coast...
1:01:54
... gathered at Mavericks for a quiet
tribute to their fallen comrade.
1:02:07
It turned the clocks back
to 10 years before...
1:02:11
...when I'm sitting out there
at the peak, by myself...
1:02:15
...with my own thoughts.
1:02:21
I wasn't sure I wanted
to surf Mavericks.
1:02:24
So when I went back out there,
I wasn't sure if I'd be spooked or not.
1:02:28
I ended up... You know, the wave
came to me and it was like, "Yes."
1:02:31
Mavericks said, "You wanna be here,
here's your wave."
1:02:34
I caught a great one,
everything was good.
1:02:36
It's the way I thought it was.
But I always knew it could kill me.
1:02:39
That it can kill anyone.
1:02:53
A year to the day after Foo's death,
during a memorial tribute session...
1:02:57
... held in Foo's honor
at Waimea Bay...
1:02:59
... California surfer Donny Solomon
was caught by a close-out set...