1:02:07
It turned the clocks back
to 10 years before...
1:02:11
...when I'm sitting out there
at the peak, by myself...
1:02:15
...with my own thoughts.
1:02:21
I wasn't sure I wanted
to surf Mavericks.
1:02:24
So when I went back out there,
I wasn't sure if I'd be spooked or not.
1:02:28
I ended up... You know, the wave
came to me and it was like, "Yes."
1:02:31
Mavericks said, "You wanna be here,
here's your wave."
1:02:34
I caught a great one,
everything was good.
1:02:36
It's the way I thought it was.
But I always knew it could kill me.
1:02:39
That it can kill anyone.
1:02:53
A year to the day after Foo's death,
during a memorial tribute session...
1:02:57
... held in Foo's honor
at Waimea Bay...
1:02:59
... California surfer Donny Solomon
was caught by a close-out set...
1:03:03
... and drowned.
1:03:06
Then in February of 1997...
1:03:09
... well-known big-wave rider
Todd Chesser...
1:03:12
... perished in 30-foot surf at a remote
North Shore outer-reef break.
1:03:29
In 1968, in the thick of that era's
shortboard revolution...
1:03:33
... a fatherless 4-year-old boy
named Laird Zerfas...
1:03:36
... accompanied his mother,
Joann, on a chance visit...
1:03:39
... to Hawaii's North Shore.
1:03:43
He couldn't have known at the time,
but he'd grow up to become...
1:03:47
... the greatest big-wave rider
of his generation.
1:03:50
Perhaps the greatest
the world has ever known.
1:03:54
After my dad left my mom,
before I could even remember...
1:03:58
...I was in search
for a masculine figure in my life.