1:37:01
...than all the other natural wonders
in the world.
1:37:04
And I wanna see the biggest swells
every year.
1:37:07
Is this a natural wonder...
1:37:10
...as much as, say,
the Grand Canyon is?
1:37:13
To me, I mean, the Grand Canyon
pales compared to, like, Mavericks.
1:37:18
The Grand Canyon is just this
sort of erosion gully.
1:37:22
People accuse us of having ego,
but it's not all about ego.
1:37:26
It's too thrilling to be
an egocentric thing.
1:37:49
Sam George, reel one.
1:37:51
If you applied the same amount
of devotion...
1:37:54
...to a religious pursuit...
1:37:57
...do you think anyone would call
you a religious bum? Probably not.
1:38:01
When you consider that surfing really
is, more than anything else, a faith...
1:38:05
...and devotion to that faith
becomes paramount in your life...
1:38:10
...there's no such thing
as a surf bum.
1:38:28
At Teahupoo,
I had the little voice going:
1:38:31
"Jump off right now.
You're not gonna make this wave."
1:38:34
And another side of me going:
1:38:35
"Well, I can't make it
unless I just stay on."
1:38:38
What is it inside him
that lets him do that?
1:38:42
It was the third testicle
we had added at birth.
1:38:54
Cut. Roll them.
1:38:57
Action.