1:38:01
When you consider that surfing really
is, more than anything else, a faith...
1:38:05
...and devotion to that faith
becomes paramount in your life...
1:38:10
...there's no such thing
as a surf bum.
1:38:28
At Teahupoo,
I had the little voice going:
1:38:31
"Jump off right now.
You're not gonna make this wave."
1:38:34
And another side of me going:
1:38:35
"Well, I can't make it
unless I just stay on."
1:38:38
What is it inside him
that lets him do that?
1:38:42
It was the third testicle
we had added at birth.
1:38:54
Cut. Roll them.
1:38:57
Action.
1:39:19
The main thing is, you need
to be able to get rid of the leash...
1:39:22
...if you get wrapped up on
the bottom or on somebody else.
1:39:26
So we've dealt with it,
with having a quick-release.
1:39:29
Before 1994, it wasn't
really widely used.
1:39:32
After Mark Foo, everybody
out there has adapted to this...
1:39:36
...and we all use leashes,
and we all have a quick-release.
1:39:50
Even today, when I go
over there, to Waimea...
1:39:54
...you know, it just blows me away.
It's like...
1:39:57
...here she is,
the same beautiful woman...