1:39:19
The main thing is, you need
to be able to get rid of the leash...
1:39:22
...if you get wrapped up on
the bottom or on somebody else.
1:39:26
So we've dealt with it,
with having a quick-release.
1:39:29
Before 1994, it wasn't
really widely used.
1:39:32
After Mark Foo, everybody
out there has adapted to this...
1:39:36
...and we all use leashes,
and we all have a quick-release.
1:39:50
Even today, when I go
over there, to Waimea...
1:39:54
...you know, it just blows me away.
It's like...
1:39:57
...here she is,
the same beautiful woman...
1:40:00
...only now, she's snuggling up
to the next generation...
1:40:04
...and the next generation.
1:40:06
But l... Last time I went,
I swear to God...
1:40:09
...I looked out, man, and I could...
1:40:11
I think she winked at me.
1:40:14
You know, when one of them
big sets came...
1:40:16
...and the sun was dancing off...
1:40:18
...the face of that wave, and...
1:40:20
...the wind was blowing the top up,
some guy was streaking, she went:
1:40:24
"Hey, Greg Noll. I remember you."
1:40:29
It makes me almost goddamn cry...
1:40:31
...and I'm not a very emotional guy,
you know.